Naxos. Home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the Cyclades, wondrous Grecian ruins, fairy-tale mountain villages surrounded by rich, fertile terrain and, seemingly, all the glittering, glistening marble in the world.This is a place that I associate with serenity and calm and which I often spend a grey, rainy London morning daydreaming about returning to. The island is wonderfully picturesque and a lot quieter than its more glamorous but crowded neighbour, Santorini.

What To Do

See The Portara

Islands are of course all about relaxation, but Naxos does also benefit from some impressive historical sights.

Upon the approach to the island by ferry you will see the Portara – The Great Door – a gorgeous marble doorway (marble is found in abundance on the island and you will see it everywhere you go, which adds to the casual beauty of the place), the remains of a temple for Apollo that was built by Naxos’ ruler Lygdamis in 530 BC when Naxos was at the height of its powers, with the ambition of the temple becoming an icon of Greece. The temple was never completed, but the Portara attests to the might Naxos once enjoyed and Lygdamis’ formidable vision.

This is a popular sunset space, with the sun dipping slowly into the ocean through the curious, isolated frame of the doorway of Naxos.

Walk Around Naxos Town 

After settling into our apartment (which was very conveniently located close to the centre) we went for a walk through Naxos’ town. There are fewer restaurants here than Santorini, but still enough to give you plenty of choice. As Naxos is an inhabited island you are much closer to every-day Greek life and away from claustrophobia-inducing crowds of tourists. The island stays alive during the winter months, unlike Santorini which effectively shuts up shop as soon as the tourist season is over.

There are also plenty of shops to peruse in the town on your way to the harbour for a dinner as the sun sets. It is not at all difficult to walk around the town centre – Google Maps being of assistance here – and the area is small enough to cover quickly. For the sweet fiends amongst us, there is a cute dessert shop and ice cream parlour close to the sea front, which you may wish to visit for some wonderful crepes.

Hop Between Naxos’ Beautiful Beaches

Clear waters and golden sand, framed by beautiful jutting rocks. There are many beaches in Naxos to drive to and relax on, and the best part of our trip was that these beaches were either empty, or close to being empty.

I am a huge fan of travelling away from well-known destinations for this exact reason. There is nothing more soothing than enjoying a stunning beach all to yourself, with no litter, no music and no parties disrupting the tranquillity of the scene.

If spending a day on the beach reading, swimming and soaking up the sun isn’t your thing, then there are also some beaches in Naxos with plenty of water sports. As I was traveling with my (waterphobic!) family I didn’t try any of these, but I would go if I ever get the chance to visit again.

Walk Through Idyllic Villages 

We took a trip to the village of Halki (driving was necessary here), located in the centre of Naxos, which is home to pastel-coloured lanes and the Church of Panagia which dates back to the 9th century.

As you walk around, you’ll see some charming shops and restaurants and be delighted by bursts of colour from vibrant bougainvillea flowers.

I took the above picture in the streets of Halki – this car seems to be permanently parked there as if to add to the style of the place. To me, this picture typifies the beauty of Naxos’ old villages, where you’ll see more cats than people and where every other lane seems to be worthy of a painting.

You will find some walking trails around Halki – Naxos is a very fertile island (unlike Santorini which is all ashes and volcano!), which makes for some absolutely stunning settings for walks. This a great place to go if you want to enjoy a day outdoors but make sure to bring supplies as the further you go, the further away you are from any amenities.

   

Drive Through The Clouds On The Mountains of Filoti Village

A short drive from Halki there lies the semi-mountainous village of Filoti, where residents have adorned their white-washed balconies and picturesque gardens with colourful splashes of more vibrantly blooming flowers.

The main street of Filoti has many a traditional Grecian cafe, which residents use as small social hubs. We drove from Filoti into the mountains, for what was a splendidly beautiful drive, eventually reaching the clouds. You do have to drive carefully here as you will be driving on the edge of a mountain, so only attempt this if you’re comfortable with navigating long, winding cliff-side roads.

Explore The Old Town

The old town of Naxos is a labyrinth of picturesque, small streets with plenty of shops, restaurants and cafes. At night this area is lit by iron lanterns, which adds to its quaint feel.

 

There is everything you would expect of a Grecian old town, with plenty of food and handcrafts on offer.

In places this can be a steep walk, especially as you climb steps to get to the high point where the Castle (Kastro) of Naxos sits, originally built under the Venetian conqueror Markos II Sanoudos. The Castle also houses a Venetian Museum and is surrounded by many Venetian houses, schools and a Catholic cathedral, allowing you to take a look inside the island’s history and the different cultures that shaped it.

 

See The Ruins of The Temple of Demeter

The ruins of this temple, built for and named after the ancient goddess of grain, date back to the 6th century and can be found in the fertile and beautifully green Sangri.

The marble temple ruins feel like they’re in the middle of nowhere, with the chirping of crickets the only sound to be heard in this part of the island.

The walk to the ruins is magnificent and I would recommend spending some time here enjoying the view.

Getting There

Both Santorini and Naxos belong to the Cyclades group of Greek islands. When planning an island-hopping trip to Greece, it’s worthwhile choosing an island cluster first. This will allow you to travel between islands more efficiently. There are regular ferries between the islands but there is not a daily ferry available between Naxos and Santorini.

I would strongly recommend you plan your island-hopping in advance, particularly in the summer months, simply because ferries are not always regular and the levels of infrastructure on each island varies.

I feel that renting a car is best for getting around the island at your own leisure, but there is plenty of public transport on the island, including to many of the beaches.

Important Tip

Get travel insurance! One thing I have learnt from traveling to islands is that travel by sea is much more prone to sudden changes than air travel. We were originally supposed to go from Santorini to Milos and then on to Naxos, but due to a ferry strike were left stranded on Santorini with no real idea of when the strike would be over and very little information on alternative plans.

We were lucky to make it on to one of the few running ferries to Naxos and while the hotel that we had booked and paid for in Milos refunded us, not all hotels will be so kind. We did also claim a refund from the ferry companies but had they not compensated us, we would have been left out of pocket. This is why travel insurance is so important, particularly when you are relying on travel by sea.

The Final View

Naxos is magical and charming and sees far less crowds than Santorini or Mykonos. If you want a place of true serenity and enjoy a mix of green landscapes and beaches, this island is ideal for you.

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